I’m sure you’re looking forward to the festivities, but before you settle in for turkey or goose (maybe turducken), I know you’ll want to get some gardening done to offset the calories.

First on your list should be some winter pruning to encourage productive fruit trees and keep shrubs to a manageable size. Trees and shrubs are dormant now so there’s less chance that some will bleed sap, and leaves have fallen which means it’s easier to see what you’re doing.

I’ll tackle the wisteria over my shed but leave some of the whippy shoots to train over a nearby arch. I’ve a couple of grapevines – one of the plants that traditionally bleed if not fully or close to dormant – to prune too.

Grapevines can produce growth of up to 10ft in one season so need to be kept in check by pruning sideshoots to two buds from the main stems that are kept as a framework. You can also take a blunt knife and scrape all the loose bark from the main stems and around the spurs to root out pests and let new growth come through more easily. Though that seems like a lot of extra work.

Wisteria can also be taken back to 2 or 3 buds after the haircut I gave it in the summer. This will keep the plant tidy and the size you want but is essential to get the best from its flowers. The one in my garden gives me two flushes, early and later in summer.

It’s the perfect time to take saw, loppers and secateurs to the pear and apple trees at the back of the garden. I want an open, balanced structure that lets air through the branches. Apparently, you want to be able to chuck a hat – possibly a pigeon (?) – through the middle of it.

Start with the ‘three Ds’ – removing all dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as crossing branches which can rub. Take your time, stepping back now and then to look at the shape of the tree, ideally from all sides, until you’re happy with size and structure. Then cut back this year’s growth on main branches by up to a third to a bud facing the direction you want it to grow in. Cut back side-shoots to five or six buds.

Through Christmas and the new year, I’ll check the state of dahlia tubers lifted to store over winter to ensure none of them are rotting. Many were grown from seed last spring, and they probably aren’t big enough to make it through winter if left in the ground. I forked them up carefully, used the jet of the hose to get as much soil off as possible, and then let them dry before wrapping them in newspaper and putting them in the frost-free garage.

I’ll cut off individual tubers that are showing signs of disease or rot and dust the cuts with flowers of sulphur. In January, I’m going to start the process of taking cuttings which apparently are a better approach when exhibiting and give bigger flowers. I’ll take them out of the garage, pot them up, give them a drink and some bottom heat and – when the shoots reach 3-4 inches – will start taking cuttings to grow on for our Autumn Show.

It’s possible to do the same thing with chrysanthemums if they’re not doing well enough on their own – to the extent that they’re taking over your allotment. Look out for some pink ‘mums in our May plant sale.