A crowd, a host, of golden daffodils

It’s March! Finally! And the spring equinox is just a few weeks off which means serious sowing and planting can get underway and brings our Spring Show on Saturday 21 March. We’ve brought it forward a couple of weeks to avoid the Easter holidays but also to catch increasingly early-flowering daffodils (Narcissus if you want to get Latin about it).

There’s no cost to enter the show and you don’t need to be a member of the Society, and we have a great programme with classes for everyone. Just download the Schedule and Entry Form from our website where a search for ‘daffodil’ will return a few tips and images to help you exhibit. If you have any questions, just email dedhamgardening@gmail.com and we’ll try to help.

The classification of daffodils can be confusing, so here’s a run-down of the differences to help you choose what to exhibit. Don’t worry about getting it wrong though – let us know when you bring your exhibit in and we can make sure it goes into the correct class.

Daffodils are typically yellow but there are also varieties in shades of white or orange. The flower itself has two key parts: the corona (also called the trumpet or cup) in the centre, which is surrounded by a perianth of (usually) six segments (the petals or tepals). This is important because it helps you put your daffodil in the right class when exhibiting.

Think of the daffodil lying on the ground with the corona face up. Sometimes it suggests a teacup resting on its saucer, and this gives a clue to one of the alternate names for the corona, the cup. Sometimes the corona is longer, so it’s called a trumpet (imagine the cone-like shape of the musical instrument). Got that? Great.

Next, daffodils are exhibited in thirteen descriptive divisions. Classes 1-6 are for trumpet daffodils, where the trumpet must be longer than the petals. To test, gently fold one of the petals forward over the corona: if it is the same length or shorter than the corona, then you have a trumpet.

Identify cupped daffodils by folding the petals forward again. If they are longer than the corona, then you have a cupped daffodil – some of the cups are small in diameter, others are much wider. Both count as cupped daffodils, ‘small’ or ‘large’. You need large-cupped for classes 7 and 8 but can put small-cupped varieties into classes 11, 12 and 15, and – if the flower is small enough – 13 and 14 too.

Double daffodils can be difficult to classify correctly. The flower itself must be doubled, a peony-like mass of corona and perianth. A daffodil with two or more flowers on the stem (ie multi-headed) is NOT classified as a double daffodil unless each of those flowers has that peony-like mass. Our show schedule asks you to exhibit one or three stems in classes 9 and 10, so you can exhibit multi-headed varieties here, just make sure every head is a double. Good multi-headed varieties include ‘Bridal Crown’, ‘Cheerfulness’ or ‘Erlicheer’ (‘Early Cheer’).

Credit (left to right): Yoksel Zok; Akam; Ethan Bell – all on Unsplash

Classes 13 and 14 are essentially for ‘any other’ type of daffodil. These include multi-headed varieties, as well as the weird-looking (I think) bulbocodium and the pretty split-cupped. Then there’s the pheasant’s eye, which has pure white petals and an almost flat corona with a red rim.

If you can’t be bothered remembering all that, just find 12 daffs, make them look nice in a vase and enter class 15. And if you’re not sure what you have, we don’t mind if you circle all the daffodil classes on your entry form and we will help you out on the day. The British weather being what it is, it doesn’t matter if – on the day – you don’t have everything you’d hoped to exhibit.

The Show is not just about daffodils of course. There are classes for other bulbs and, as it might prove too early for many tulips, we’ve created a dedicated class for grape hyacinths (muscari) this year.

Class 20 requires 12 stems of small or miniature bulbous plants with a minimum of three different varieties. There’s nothing stopping you from including miniature daffodils or muscari here, even if you’ve also used them in classes 13, 14 or 18, while scilla, puschkinia and ipheion all have smaller varieties.

Although not officially bulbous, we ask our judge to be kind here so anemone, cyclamen and crocus (rhizomes, tubers and corms respectively) can also be included in this class.

Remember that a variety can be the same kind of plant but look different. For example, ‘Dutch Master’ and ‘Mount Hood’ are both trumpet daffodil types, but the first is an all-yellow variety, the second all-white. If they were miniatures (they’re not, don’t try it) they would count towards two of the three needed in class 20. For miniature daffs, where the blooms are usually less than 2 inches (50mm) in diameter, ‘Tête-à-Tête’, ‘Rip van Winkle’, ‘Sun Disc’ and ‘Minnow’ are all very different varieties.

For class 21, 12 stems of spring flowers, you’ll probably have to draw on any hellebores, primroses, primulas, wallflowers, pansies or violas that you haven’t already used in other classes. You can’t use any bulbs or shrubs, so daffodils and spring blossom will be disqualified here.

Do have a look at the schedule on our website. It would be great to see more people taking part and supporting Dedham’s gardening group. I know the show sounds a bit intimidating but we’re a friendly bunch and are happy to help and offer advice and encouragement.  Even if you don’t exhibit, make sure to put the afternoon of 21 March in your diary and come along for a look around, a hot drink and the raffle! We’ll see you there.

Transition into spring

February is a transitional month in the garden – still very much winter, but full of signs that spring is approaching as the days get longer and the soil slowly starts to warm again.

Look around the garden and you’ll find snowdrops, crocus, winter aconites and camellias bringing the first real colour of the year (green doesn’t count). I’m cutting back the leaves of my hellebores to remove signs of black spot and display the flowers to their best advantage. Elsewhere, daffodils are coming into flower, seeming to bloom earlier than ever – one of our members had a daff in full flower on Christmas Day! – while indoors, I’ve amaryllis (left) and forced hyacinths cheering the place up.

If vegetables are your thing, you might still be harvesting the winter cabbages, sprouts, leeks and parsnips that you didn’t eat over Christmas. However, generally February is a great time to shake off the last of the winter lull and begin preparing your garden for the growing year to come.

Traditional cottage gardens would mix ornamental plants (grown for flowers or foliage, rather than to eat) with edibles, and rhubarb can look wonderfully architectural among your flowers. It can also be grown in a large pot – just divide it and share it with friends when it gets too big. If you haven’t already done it, early in the month is really your last opportunity to cover the plant with a bucket or forcer (right) to exclude light and grow stems that are a lovely tender and juicy pink. Yum!

There are several seeds worth sowing under cover this month – I have some windowsill propagators that are ideal for starting off my tomatoes – as well as some that can be sown in a tray and left in a sheltered area outside. The latter will usually be hardy annuals, biennials like foxgloves, or perennial seeds which may not germinate unless they think they’ve suffered through a winter season before the rise in temperature encourages them to sprout.

There’s quite a bit of pruning you can do towards the end of the month. I’ve talked about roses in a previous article, but you can also cut back some clematis varieties (the Group 3s) in February. I’ve several in rich jewel tones like ‘Gravetye Beauty’, ‘Rooguchi’, ‘Madame Julia Correvon’ and ‘Niobe’. All flower later in the summer and benefit from being pruned to a pair of healthy buds 20-30cm from the base of the plant.

A flower with purple petals and a mass of purple stamens in the centre with green leaves in the background.

I love them for their different shapes and wide range of colours. Well chosen, you can have a clematis of one form or another in flower throughout the year, but they can take a while to establish. If you’re fond of a rhyme (and who isn’t), there are a couple to help, with the first being especially apt right now: ‘if they flower before June, don’t prune’.

The second gives you some reassurance if you think the plant you put in last year has turned up its toes: “the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap”. Just give them some feed, try to keep the roots cool in the heat of summer, and don’t accidentally dig them up, and they’ll eventually do you proud.

As part of the plan to rejuvenate one of my borders, I’ll also cut back my deciduous ornamental grasses, the two-metre tall Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ which have grown into significant clumps over the last decade. I’m going to divide them and discard any sections that are no longer performing well before replant some of the pieces in other places around the garden. They are great for creating informal screening and creating surprise and interest.

If you have just a balcony, patio or small courtyard, plant lily bulbs now for stunning scented blooms in the summer. If you’re pots and containers have been planted for a while, remember that the soil may have run out of nutrients by now and will need more to grow will in the season to come. You don’t always have to repot them; instead, you can ‘top dress’ which just means replacing the first two inches of compost with fresh and adding a sprinkling of slow-release fertiliser.

Start warming up for spring with a bit of time among your pots and borders this month. It’ll be worth it – I promise!